
IT'S INEVITABLE–EXPOSURE TO SUN AND WIND will leave their marks on our skin in the form of wrinkles, sun spots, and lackluster texture. But it’s not irreversible. And the fixes can be relatively fast. We asked experts to point us to the best noninvasive procedures for correcting five common cosmetic concerns. The most natural-looking results come from combining treatments, says Cambridge, Massachusetts, dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD, president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology & Aesthetic Surgery. A little Botox here, a little collagen boost there, a little resurfacing—and you’ll discreetly turn back time. All anyone will know is that you look better; they’ll never guess why.
WIPE AWAY WRINKLES
There are static wrinkles, formed simply by gravity—for example, the lines that extend from the corners of your nose to the corners of your lips. Then there are dynamic wrinkles created by repeated movement, such as the furrows between your brows when you frown.
For fine lines, you just fill in the gap, says Dr. Hirsch, who recommends injectable dermal fillers such as collagen (brand names Cosmoderm and Cosmoplast). These synthetics are now the norm (replacing bovine collagen), because they bring little risk of allergy. Another option Dr. Hirsch favors is hyaluronic acid (Restylane, Juvaderm, and Hylaform), a natural component of skin that is injected in gel form.
Dynamic wrinkles (aka expression lines) bow down to
Botox, a purified protein derived from the Clostridium botulinum bacterium, which is injected in very small doses to
inhibit muscle movement. “Since the relaxed muscles are
unable to contract fully, your skin wrinkles less, resulting in a smoother appearance,” says Dennis Gross, MD, a Manhattan dermatologist and founder of MD Skincare. Botox was the top noninvasive procedure for men and women in 2005,
according to the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery.
Fillers and Botox are temporary treatments, so plan for
return visits to your dermatologist in 3 to 6 months,
depending on the procedure. Botox, however, is anecdotally believed to produce cumulative results since the less you are furrowing your skin, the fewer new wrinkles you create.
Treatment Tip: Prices for Botox vary, but if what you are quoted is unbelievably cheap, it’s just that—unbelievable. “Too frequently, patients shop around for a deal, only to find that they have purchased watered-down product that either does not work or does not last,” says Kenneth Beer, MD, a cosmetic and surgical dermatologist in Palm Beach, Florida. To find out if you’re getting good value, he says, ask your practitioner how many units (rather than syringes or areas) you’re paying for and comparison shop.

PLUMP UP YOUR SKIN
Collagen is what makes a baby’s skin so radiant and cushy, and it’s what yours loses as you age, creating hollow areas under the eyes and cheeks, says Dr. Gross. There are a variety of treatments that can plump up these areas as well as lips or acne or surface scars.
Restylane is one filler that shows promise for initiating collagen production in the skin. “Historically we’ve thought of putting stuffin the skin as a temporary fix—like spackle,” says Dr. Hirsch. But a recent study conducted by researchers at the University of Michigan Health System showed that Restylane stretched the skin’s fibroblasts, or collagen-producing cells, motivating them to produce new collagen. (Researchers didn’t test other brands of hyaluronic acid.) “Restylane’s result is silky-smooth firm skin and improved density—diminishing the
appearance of fine lines for a more youthful appearance, while protecting your skin against future damage,” says Dr. Gross.
Perlane, a thicker version of hyaluronic acid, works better for deeper lines. Also, collagen and fat from elsewhere in your body can be used as fillers. Radiesse and Sculptra are synthetic
fillers meant for much deeper hollows like the cheeks.
Depending on the area covered and on your anatomy, you will need to go back for the dermal filler in 3 to 12 months.
Laser and light treatments “are making huge strides in plumping,” says Dr. Beer, and also help produce collagen. They offer the side benefit of reducing lines, freckles, irregular pigmentation, rosacea, acne scars, and enlarged pores. Three to six treatments are recommended for maximal results.
ERASE AGE AND SUN SPOTS You can treat dark blotches or discolorations with prescription topical vitamin A products (retinoids) such as Renova and Retin-A, but your best option is a laser treatment that targets pigment or discoloration, says Dr. Hirsch: “The Rolls-Royce is the Q Switch YAG laser.” Other options include moderate chemical peels, fractional resurfacing (laser treatment that targets microscopic places on skin, leaving other parts unaffected; brand names are Fraxel and the Palomar 1540 system), and intense pulsed light (IPL) treatments (such as Chromolite) that target dark pigments.
Treatment Tip: Make sure your practitioner has more than one laser, including the right one for your needs. And, since sun exposure can cause or worsen age spots, not wearing sunscreen after your treatment will set you back to square one.
SMOOTH AND TONE SKIN TEXTURE “Dead skin cells make a complexion dull, and they can also clog pores and lead to breakouts,” says Dr. Gross. As you age, your skin’s natural exfoliation slows down. Dr. Gross advises a professional peel to firm and brighten skin. He uses a mixture of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA, salicylic acid). Over time, peels can minimize large pores, scars, fine lines, and acne.
Treatment Tip: The higher the concentration of acids, the better and more lasting the results—but also the more skin irritation and downtime you can expect. Over-the-counter versions contain only 10% AHAs and BHAs; cosmetologists can use 20 to 30%; and doctors can go to 50 to 70%. After a moderate to deep peel, you can expect skin to be red, flaky, and oozing for 1 to 4 weeks. The results will last, too, anywhere from 2 to 5 years. With a cosmetologist peel, you will need repeated applications (one to three over 3 to 6 months) to see results. After acid peels, your skin will be extra sun-sensitive, so load up on sunscreen.
MAKE SPIDER VEINS VANISH Small, thin clusters of veins that lie close to the skin’s surface are spider veins. To get rid of them, try sclerotherapy, in which a saline or detergent solution is injected into veins, causing them to collapse and fade. Three or more treatments are required to produce permanent results. Sclerotherapy can also be used on small varicose veins. Varicose veins can also be treated through radio-frequency ablation in which a catheter inserted into the vein releases energy and ablates the vessel, according to Dr. Beer, who recommends getting this done by a vascular surgeon, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or interventional radiologist.
Treatment Tip: For veins on the face, choose non- invasive lasers combined with IPL treatments. Your dermatologist can help you understand which options are best for you.
It may be tempting to get noninvasive procedures done when you’re at a day spa for a body wrap. And even though some treatments discussed here seem simple, you’ll likely get better and safer results if the syringes and lasers are wielded by medically trained hands. All of the experts we spoke with recommend seeing a licensed physician specializing in aesthetic procedures (like a dermatologist or plastic surgeon), preferably one with “lasers and other equipment on the premises and vast experience performing the procedures you’re considering. A word-of-mouth recommendation never hurts, either,” says Dennis Gross, MD, a Manhattan dermatologist. Start out slow, advises Kenneth Beer, MD, a Palm Beach, Florida, dermatologist. “Don’t get talked into getting six syringes the first time you visit,” he says. “Try a few areas and make sure you like the doctor and technique.”
QUESTIONS TO ASK
Find member doctors on professional organization Web sites such as the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology & Aesthetic Surgery (ascdas.org); the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (surgery.org); the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery (cosmeticsurgery.org); the American Board of Dermatology (abderm.org); the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (plasticsurgery.org.); or the American Academy of Dermatology (aad.org).
Maria Ricapito is a freelance writer who covers beauty, home, food, and other topics. She lives in New York’s Hudson Valley.






